For most of us it is sitting under the hood, a black cube with a couple of large cables connected to it. Certainly not as exciting as the engine. The only time we consider its existence is when it fails to start our car.
These simple black boxes used to come in two sizes, 6 volt and 12 volt. If you had an English manufactured car you might have to deal with a positive ground electrical system. By the late 1960’s 12 volt became the world standard as well as negative being the ground to the car’s chassis.
Twelve volts has been sufficient for the automobile industry for decades and the battery design has remained pretty much the same – lead acid. Yes, dear folks, there is both lead and acid in most car batteries. It is that chemical reaction between the two that releases the voltage our cars require to turn the engine over and fire the spark plugs. It was invented in 1859 by Gaston Plante, a French physicist.
But it doesn’t use just volts to turn over the starter. No, it also uses amps. That is why CCA (cold cranking amps) is an important consideration when picking a replacement for a worn out battery. It is a measurement of the amperage that the battery can supply for 30 seconds at zero degrees F. That is why most battery failures happen in the colder winter months. Cold weather reduces the battery’s output. And hot temperatures reduce a battery’s life. Which leads one to wonder why they are kept in the hot engine compartment.
It is important to understand a little about the chemistry used in the common lead acid battery. As electricity runs through the battery it causes the water inside the battery to change to its basic elements of oxygen and hydrogen. I hope you recognise those two elements and their explosive nature.
Battery Maintenance
Today batteries come in two basic types – sealed and unsealed. The sealed can be lead acid with the same distilled water mix as the unsealed or they might be the “gel” battery type where it is not only sealed, but there is a gel used instead of a liquid. The sealed gel batteries don’t need to be vented either. This can be a plus if you ever decide to move your battery from the engine compartment to the trunk.
Always take time to inspect the battery terminals. These are either on top of the battery or on the side. The top ones are posts about an inch in diameter where the cables are held with clamps. Side posts have threaded spots where the cables bolt up to. Notice that in both cases each terminal is far apart from each other. You never want to have anything that can conduct electricity touch the two terminals together. I’ve seen mechanics foolish enough to be wearing a metal watch band touch the positive terminal to the frame and weld themselves to the frame with the watch band. One very hot watch band.
Cleaning the battery can be a good thing if it is done the right way. First off you should disconnect the terminals starting with the negative side first. If the terminal has a red cover than it is NOT the negative. Once the battery is disconnected from the electrical system you can clean it carefully. You should be wearing safety glasses that shield your eyes from any possible splatter. Remember, there is acid in that battery. You should also be wearing latex or vinyl gloves to protect your skin.
These batteries weigh anywhere from 40 to 60 pounds. If you can manage that weight safely then remove the battery from the car. This will protect the car from any acid splatter that might occur accidentally.
Auto parts stores sell spray-on battery cleaners that make it easy to apply. Remove the excess cleaner and dirt with paper towels and dispose of them carefully. You can make your own cleaner with a mix of baking soda and water. The baking soda neutralizes the acid on the outside of the battery. Don’t get any on the inside of the battery.
The terminals and clamps should be brushed clean with a small wire brush being careful not to get any of it in your eyes. That is one of the reasons you are wearing safety glasses. Auto parts stores sell specially made brushes to clean the terminals and clamps too.
If it is a sealed battery that is as far as you go. But if your battery has caps covering the cells you can pull or unscrew them and check out the “water” level in each cell. Clean carefully any new dirt exposed from removing the covers being certain not to get dirt or cleaner into the cells.
You should use a flash light to view inside each cell. NEVER use a match or flame! There is hydrogen gas released and batteries will explode. A battery explosion can not only damage your car it can kill or maim you while spreading acid over everything. A flash light is safe though. As you peer down each cell’s hole their should be “water” covering the lead plates. If the lead plates get exposed to air it is likely that you are going to be buying a new battery. You should add only DISTILLED water to a battery if the water is low. Tap water has too many contaminates to be used. You should only fill it so that the water acid mix come up to the bottom of the plastic tubes, never to the top of the hole. Any excess water should be captured with a paper towel. Then the caps need to be secured.
When attaching the cables back onto the battery be certain that the positive terminal goes on first. Make certain that you know which terminal is positive, too. It should be marked on the battery case itself. Attach the negative terminal last.
How long should your battery last?
That’s easy, it depends. Today’s cars ask a lot out of the 12 volt electrical systems and the battery, too. They need to run DVD players, GPS units, heated seats, heated cup holders, and hundreds of sensors, no to mention the engine, lights, radio, etc. As a result car batteries don’t always last for five years or more. With all the demands on them they are more likely to wear out in two or maybe three years.
Some cars do better than others. Subaru cars tend to be frugal with their power demands as are many Honda and Toyota cars. Cadillac, Chevrolet, Nissan and GMC models are are the opposite end of the demand scale.
Soon we may see the twelve volt system disappear and a new standard, the 42 volt system will become the standard. This will allow plenty of power for the miriad of devices that make up modern cars.




May 6, 2007 at 9:21 am |
Jim,
Great coverage of the material. Upon reading this, I felt the urge to recount my exploding battery story, grabbed camera and headed outside to take picture of the remains, with the planned intent to link here. Alas, I remembered that I decided that a battery with the top 1/3 of it blown away was a big environmental hazard, leaking acid, lead and all, and had turned it in last year. In any event, let me assure readers who haven’t experienced the realities of a hydrogen explosion caused by arcing cable connections and heat from high current draw trying to start a cold diesel in the middle of winter, that it is spectacular. I had opened the battery cover lid and was reaching in when it went off – it sounded like a 12 gauge shotgun going off, and my hand when flying back past my head and was numb. For a moment, I thought I’d lost it or at least some fingers, but was gratified to see all were still there. I was though splattered with acid, and let me just say, that when you wash those close, you should expect them to come out of the washer with holes eaten in them. Instant acid wash jeans.
May 8, 2007 at 11:26 pm |
Jim,
Your articles are an inspiration for me when I launch my blog again…. only mine will be on fish keeping and wood working.
I would add that if you have an extra battery sitting around, make sure it is not stored on the ground or on a concrete slab. Placing it on a sturdy shelf or top of an old milk crate would be advised. A car battery left on the ground will naturally discharge at a faster rate. I’d often question this until I experienced it first hand and some college made me smarter about electricity.
As for keeping them in the trunk… venting certainly is an issue, but I’m sure that longer length cable and extra install process adds cost even if it was done with high volume new cars. (Boss 429 came with it in the trunk!)
I went looking at some vehicles the other day when I was ordering parts for my truck. Popped the hood on a new Dakota and noticed they had wrapped the battery in insulation…… Must be the signs of the ever shrinking battery compartment.
Also of note, maybe it is that batteries are now made better, but ten years ago or more I’d be lucky to get 4 years of reliable service out of my car batteries living near the Canadian border. I’ve been getting 5-7 years living in the south even with the heat.
May 9, 2007 at 5:44 am |
Dan -
Be sure to let me know when you start your blog! Thanks for your comments.
Jim
May 11, 2007 at 5:59 pm |
Re: batteries in trunk
The Holden Commodore (aka forthcoming Pontiac G8) has the battery in the trunk. I assume it will follow over with the G8? They moved it there to help weight distribution. in addition to moving the engine further back in the engine bay. Glad I won’t have to work on that engine!
http://tinyurl.com/2jgynv
May 29, 2007 at 8:50 am |
Gtreat blog, i have a 1996 3000gt with the original battery, i always top up with distilled water every winter and its never let me down (touching wood!)
Lee
February 2, 2008 at 9:21 am |
Thanks for the informative article.I wanted to share an article I wrote about car battery boosting with you and your readers. You can find it at: .1mobilerepair.com.
The reason I think they are putting the battery in the trunk is mainly for wheight distribution as some of you mentioned, and that has also a negative effect. When you do that the starter and alternators will have to work harder due to the extra load the long positive cable represents.
There are ways to extend the battery life, one of them is with a solar maintaner, a battery saver, some battery desulfaters seem to work. But the average life is ussually 3 to 4 years for conventional batteries.
Again Mr. Jim, thanks for the exellent article.
Pedro Talavera.
Miami Fl.
February 10, 2008 at 10:49 pm |
very good and very infromative blog..
easy to understand english.
March 20, 2008 at 8:56 am |
That business about a battery discharging faster if sitting on the earth or concrete is pure unadulterated wife’s tale baloney!
The story held a little water eons ago when battery cases were made of wood, instead of hard rubber or plastics.
Old ’stories’ die hard.
April 21, 2008 at 1:26 am |
Great article on a much overlooked part of the auto. I agree, don’t keep your battery on the ground, it will discharge as the earth is a natural ground. Keep the battery clean, as believe it or not dirt, which is earth, does not have to be connected to the ground. Dirt on top of a battery will cause the battery to discharge (not much, but it is measurable). You can measure it w/ a voltmeter.
Today’s batteries actually don’t have to run anything that they didn’t run in the past. Once the car is started you can throw the battery away (until you need to start it again). The alternator powers the whole system, and gives the battery a little charge to top off what it lost during cranking.
May 23, 2008 at 5:47 pm |
Steve . Where did you find that information about the alternator not needing the battery after the car starts? The alternator can’t make all the power needed when you have all the accesories on. Like ac, defoger, high beams, brake lights, wipers, lowering a window. That is what the battery does, assist when there is too much load.
Also.
I did some research and all battery manufacturers I contacted say batteries don’t drain if left on the floor.
Most people that say that about batteries draining on the floor also say that in Florida you don’t need a thermostat…
February 3, 2009 at 9:32 am |
Hi,
I have read that sulfide build up on the plates in the battery is what cause the battery to die after a few years. Is it possible to clean it out either with a chemical or just by scraping the plates with a sharp object or a wire brush?
Ron
February 4, 2009 at 9:00 am |
Ron -
Let’s face it, lead acid batteries are not meant to last forever. Sulfide build up is part of the electrolysis process that occurs as the battery is charged and discharged.
I would NOT advise anyone to scrape it off the plates of their car battery. Hopefully most batteries out there are sealed and any others should be treated with the utmost respect as they contain acid and emit the gases hydrogen and oxygen.
If you don’t have a sealed battery then you should ONLY use distilled water to fill it to the proper level. The proper level is NOT the top of the holes. See the text above for an explanation.
There are some battery chargers available out there that have a charge/discharge cycle that is designed to remove most of these deposits. Be certain that if you purchase one that you follow the directions carefully. I believe that you must remove the battery from the vehicle prior to using this feature of the charger.
Do not introduce any chemicals into the battery in the hope of extending its life. Everything has its lifespan and so do lead acid batteries. Distilled water is the only additive to use.
Remember that the electrical demands of cars sold in the last ten years is many more times as intense as were ever imagined when the 12 volt battery became standard in cars. The days when you could get nearly ten years of useful life out of your vehicle’s battery are long gone. Five is doing well.
Jim