Project Legacy GT SpecB – part 2


This week we had a visit from a car that we had worked on some before.  It is Ted’s 2006 Subaru Legacy GT SpecB.  This is quite an interesting car from Subaru.  It comes with a lot of luxury items like GPS, heated seats, and a nice sound system, but it also has a potent 2.5 liter turbo and the SpecB Bilstein suspension.  It is a bit of a sleeper because it is a sedan that doesn’t throw out a lot of the styling cues that are normally used by car companies to announce that this car is special.  The only way you would know that it is a SpecB is if you saw the plate on the center console that tells you it is 263 out of 500 made.

No it’s not a WRX STi, but it does have a lot more going for it than a “regular” Legacy GT.

It also has some bad manners.  Ted originally brought it to me because he was disappointed in the handling.  He felt that it had too much body roll and felt imprecise.  Ted likes a car that feeds back to the driver and obviously the SpecB was letting him down.

I took it for a test drive and agreed with him that it had more body roll than it deserved and let Ted know that I felt we could improve things.  Ted wanted to jump on some springs to lower the stance as the solution and I balked.  It was not that I didn’t realize that the center of gravity would be lowered by this approach, but I was concerned that the roll center would likely be moved to below the ground level. 

What the heck is the “roll center” you may well ask.  It is a point on which the front suspension rotates the body as it takes a corner.  Depending where it occurs – above ground or below ground – your handling can be worse even with a lowered center of gravity.  In my youth I’ve enthusiastically found the springs that lowered my car the most and then had to live with bump steer and understeer that fought me as I tried to corner quickly.  What I was fighting was the effect of moving the roll center below ground.

So the first thing I did to reduce the body roll was to get a larger adjustable anti-roll bar for the rear as well as more substantial end links to ensure that the bar could do its job without distorting the end links. Then I installed a front strut tower brace to crisp up the front geometry.  Later I installed Goodridge braided stainless steel brake lines on all four corners.

Ted was delighted with the improvement to the car’s handling characteristics but still wondered if more could be done.  I was reluctant to try springs until I could also solve the roll center issue.

Then some research pointed me to a kit that took care of the roll center problem.  It was by Whiteline and consisted of new ball joints and tie rod ends.  The ball joints were extended so that the lower control arm would be brought back to a proper angle and the tie rod ends did the same to ensure that bump steer was minimized.


I let Ted know about the solution so we ordered a set of STi pink springs for the Legacy GT SpecB along with the roll center correction kit.

Getting the Subaru up in the air we removed the wheels and marked which corner they came from so they could be stacked out of the way.  Then we started with the front struts.  First we marked the position of the eccentric top bolt at the bottom of the strut mount with white out.  Then we removed those bolts before undoing the three top nuts and lowering the assembly to the floor where we could work on it.  With the spring compressor we took the tension off the assembly and used the air gun to remove the top nut off the Bilstein strut.  The new pink springs were quite a bit shorter so they did not require quite as much compressing in order to assemble things.


The driver’s side was pretty much the same and with both strut assemblies back in place it was time to install the roll center kit.  To do so require that the front anti-roll bar be removed at the brackets leaving the end links in place.  That allowed the lower control arms to be levered down when it came time to remove the ball joints.


First I loosened the lock nuts on the tie rod ends and backed them off so I could mark the position of the end with white out.  Then I unscrewed the tie rod end and screwed on the replacement.   That part was pretty straight forward.  The ball joint was held in by a cross bolt on the strut end and a castle nut and cotter pin on the control arm end.  Both of those were easy to remove and then a shot of lubricant and a pry bar helped to separate everything.  It helps that this is a low mileage car that is not driven in the northern climes.


The new ball joints are a bit taller and this is what corrects the angle of the control arm.  I also had to move the hardened cone off the original ball joint and install it on the replacement.  This is required because the control arm is an aluminum alloy and needs the protection of the hardened cone.


Then it was time for the rear shocks.  First I had to remove the trunk trim on the bottom and both sides.  The plastic push pins are far easier to deal with than what Mitsubishi uses in their trunk.  All that was needed was a tool to pop them out.  Over the spare tire is a tray that was a very handy place to store all these small fasteners.

With the trim panels out of the way I could reach the two nuts that hold the top of the rear shock in place, but first I had to undo the large bottom bolt and support the bottom of the shock with a floor jack.  That kept it from crashing to the floor once I removed the top nuts.  With everything undone I could lower the jack enough to slip out the shock assembly. 

Once again, the new springs were considerably shorter than the originals which made installation with the spring compressor just as easy as with the front struts.  Here are some shots of the springs prior to mounting.


With everything put back together and properly torqued it was time to think about alignment.  No, I don’t have an alignment rack, but I do have a good buddy that has an excellent rack with the latest in computerized equipment.  He also understands that factory specs are not always desirable. 


I was able to get a slot in his schedule this morning and was pleasantly surprise at the starting point.  The rear camber was a negative 1.0 degree on both sides and the front was a negative 0.6 degree on each of the front sides.  The only thing that required adjustment was toe and we set that to zero for both the front and the rear.  While the front struts to provide for camber adjustment there was no adjustment for caster, which was in the neighborhood of 6 for both sides.  The rear has no adjustment for camber.

With all that done we did an oil change and made sure that the wheels were torqued to the factory specification of between 100-120 Nm.

The car now has plenty of roll stiffness without paying a penalty of an improper roll center.  It handled beautifully providing plenty of feedback, yet with the Bilsteins, there was no penalty of harshness.  The ride is excellent and I see no reason why Subaru could not have equipped the car like this from the get go.  Ted is going to grin all the way home when he picks this up tomorrow.


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15 Responses to Project Legacy GT SpecB – part 2

  1. Tim says:

    Great writeup Jim. I love the LGT’s and seriously considered one before I bought the Goat. The roll center kit looks serious, as all Whiteline products do – they make some great stuff.

    BTW – looks like you’ve got a fair amount of noise in a few of your images. Keep an eye on your camera’s settings – the “simple” mode has a habit of increasing ISO speed and adds a lot of noise. Try the flash and reduce the flash exposure to help it look less over-lit. 😀

  2. Kenny says:

    Nice article. I just bought the 2.5i and I am stoked. I know its underpowered and undoubtedly softer than the GT SpecB, but I’ve gotta eat too and for the price I think it’s great! I agree with your comment about the suspension being too soft. Without lowering and changing springs, how much do you think a front tower brace and rear stabilizer bar would affect roll?

    Thanks for taking the time!

  3. jimsgarage says:

    Kenny –

    What we found was that the ride was definitely improved with the adjustable rear anti roll bar and upgraded end links. The front strut brace provide a little more predictability to the turn in feel of the car. These were improvements that made the handling more enjoyable.

    Suspension modifications can be a never ending journey, but if you take it in steps you can enjoy each improvement and live within a reasonable budget.

    You might be on the lookout for someone who has taken their SpecB over the edge and has replaced the factory Bilsteins. That way you could buy their shocks and struts and upgrade your own suspension. I was able to upgrade a friends Evolution that way when he found an Evolution MR suspension for sale on eBay.

    Another thing to keep in mind is that the most bang for your buck suspension modification you can make is to upgrade the tires. If it is within your budget you might want to research what tire options fit your current rims. Maybe with the Christmas season Santa would help you out with some upgraded wheels, too.

  4. Tim says:

    Kenny – head over to – there are plenty of 2.5i owners and the GT/Spec.B owners may be selling their used parts ripe for your picking.

  5. Kenny says:

    That’s great advice. Thanks all! I will be scouring the web for those SpecB Bilstiens… Tires are definitely on the list too; the 2.5i SE comes stock with all weather 205/50R17s, unnessecary in Southern California. I am definitely happy with this car though.

    Take it easy. Thanks for running this site.

  6. Kenny says:

    By the way, where do you get your factory torque specs for a car this new? A friend of mine has a Mitchell Online catalouge and it’s not available there, which is usually a good source.

  7. jimsgarage says:

    There are some basic torque specs in the owner’s manual, but now shops like Auto Zone can connect you with All Data Pro and provide you with diagrams and torque specs when you buy parts. You might find a friendly tech at a shop that has access to All Data Pro, too.

    Or you can use what one tech calls the German torque specs of “Gutten Tite”.

  8. Rob says:


    I’ve got a twin turbo Legacy Blitzen and am increasingly noticing some ‘clunking’ and noise from front right wheel area. It’s not a wheel bearing, but could it be a worn bottom arm ball joint? I’ve experienced something similiar in my old Mitsi Legnum and seems most noticeable at slow speed over even small bumps. Any advice would be gratefully received.

    • BBB says:

      Clunking can be the nut on top of the shock – you’ll need a Allen to hold the shaft and a ring spanner for the nut.

  9. jimsgarage says:

    Rob –

    Nice to hear from you. Without knowing a few more things, like mileage and your maintenance I would hazzard a guess that it could be your anti-roll bar. Either an end link or maybe the bushings. If that checks out as okay then certainly do a check of the ball joint.

    Let us know what you come up with.


  10. Rob says:

    Many thanks Jim – will get those things checked out.

  11. Mitch Ross says:

    I own also own a 2006 Legacy Spec B with 140000 miles and i have cluncking noise in front end. Would you provide part number so i can copy your efforts
    Thanks in Advance

    • jimsgarage says:

      The spings are STi springs, and the roll center correction kit is frome Whiteline ( With the kind of mileage you have you should get new Bilstein shocks and struts – they can be had through

  12. Walter says:

    Where did you get the springs? I am very interested in doing the exact same thing for my 08 spec b

    • jimsgarage says:

      It was way back in 2007 and I looked through my notes on the car. I honestly can’t find the source that was used at the time. I’m sure that a google search can turn up some sources. I would just be sure to include the Whiteline pieces, too.

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